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Rathcroghan: Gateway to the Underworld and Ancient Royal Seat

An Ancient Land of Significance

In the enchanting land of Co Roscommon, Ireland, lies the Rathcroghan complex, a place shrouded in mystery and steeped in historical and spiritual significance. This ancient site was once where the kings and queens of Connacht were inaugurated through a sacred ritual, symbolically “mating” with the local Earth goddess. As the festival of Samhain approaches, when the veil between the living world and the underworld grows thin, the area remains untouched, especially near the lair of the war goddess Morrigan.

The Enigmatic Cave

The entrance to Uaimh na gCait, or the Cave of the Cats, is a fascinating blend of a man-made souterrain and a natural limestone cavern. An Ogham inscription on a lintel stone reads “Frach, son of Medb,” referring to the queen closely associated with this region. According to local legend, this cave serves as a gateway to the underworld, marked by Morrigan, who tormented the cattle raiders from Rathcroghan during the legendary Táin Bó Cuailnge.

A Site of Royal Ritual

The plans for many campaigns, including the infamous Táin Bó Cuailnge, may have been conceived atop Rathcroghan Mound, a royal settlement and sacred burial site in Machaire Connacht. This grassy mound was central to the inauguration rituals of Connacht’s rulers, solidifying its place among Ireland’s four major royal sites, alongside Tara in Co Meath, Navan Fort in Co Armagh, and Knockaulin in Co Kildare.

Echoes of the Past

According to the eighth-century text, Táin Bó Fraích, Medb and her husband Ailill had a grand house built at Rathcroghan, adorned with copper pillars and bronze decorations. Today, Rathcroghan remains the nucleus of a complex featuring over 60 monuments, located just northwest of Tulsk, where the community operates the visitor center, Cruachán Aí.

Preservation and Exploration

The visitor center provides an engaging journey through time, spanning from the Mesolithic era (6,000 BC) to the Iron Age. The tour trails are informed by non-invasive geophysical surveys conducted by the National University of Ireland, Galway (NUIG), which help interpret the soil’s physical and chemical properties. Joe Fenwick, a field officer at NUIG, reflects on how these discoveries have changed his perception of Rathcroghan, revealing layers of history previously unseen.

New Insights Await

Rathcroghan, comparable in size to Newgrange, was once approached via an east-facing avenue. Evidence of two concentric stone walls and a timber palisade can still be found, alongside indications of timber structures atop the mound. Fenwick notes that while definitive proof of roofing remains elusive, the advancements in construction during the Iron Age suggest that these ancient inhabitants were certainly capable of creating well-structured roofs.

Conclusion: A Legacy to Preserve

While Rathcroghan Mound and several major monuments are under State ownership, others lie on private land, necessitating visitors to seek permission from landowners. Despite the rapid growth of Dublin, Rathcroghan’s richly historic landscape is expected to endure long into the future, preserving its legacy. These recent discoveries not only enhance our understanding of a distant past but also contribute to the safeguarding of these invaluable sites for generations to come.

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